|
|
To
be sure of an early start on the Sunday we travelled up to Kirk Yetholm on
Saturday evening and
stayed at the Valley Dene B&B at the end of the Pennine Way. A half a
minute walk from the
B&B is the Border Inn where we had a very nice meal; the lamb is superb! Sunday
morning and we were off, 46-miles grade D:
The
first day we cycled from Kirk Yetholm to Hawick. At a little over 45-miles
and a few hills to climb
this was one of the two “hard days” of the trip. We had very few problems with
traffic, the roads
being almost deserted. The weather was good, and clear views were enjoyed
along the route, especially
the section around the Jedforest Deer and Farm Park where the road is
elevated and easy
to cycle. Way
marking on this day was fine. The trick is to trust the route. If you come
across a junction and
there is no route sign to be seen, stick to the road you are on; it’s usually
obvious. We quickly adapted
to this and it went very well up until Coldstream. But that’s miles away yet! There
are numerous places to stay in Hawick: hotels and B&Bs galore. On this
trip we stayed at the Country
Inn at New Mill, a couple of miles or so southwest on the A5. Accommodation
was fine and the
evening meal was plentiful. Hawick
itself is a very attractive border town, worthy of spending some time were it
not for the fact that
the next day is the hardest leg (45-miles grade D) on the Borderloop! So it
was an early start for us:
After
the hardest day’s cycling (on what would prove to be the worst weather day),
through stunning scenery,
our second night’s stop was at the Crook Inn. A very interesting building:
hundreds of years old
in parts, with an arts décor entrance, and a genuine link with Robert Burns
(he wrote the poem “Willie
Wastle” in the bar). We can really recommend this as a stopover whether doing
the Borderloop or
not. The rooms are spacious and reasonably priced, and the evening meals are
good value and excellent
quality.
This
day was a short cycling day (31-miles grade B+), a rest day much needed after
two hard days. We spent our third night
in Traquair. There are numerous places to stay in and around the Peebles and
Innerleithen area. The
cycling today was marvellous with beautiful views at almost every turn. The
gates of Traquair House are
worth a look; they haven’t been opened since the fall of the Stuart Dynasty.
Our
forth night is in Melrose; another Border town worthy of a longer stay.
Melrose has many very nice places to
stay and abundant opportunities for evening meals. The leg from Traquair to
Melrose is rather tough; it includes the
steepest climb on this clock-wise route. The hill out of Stow feels as though
it’s going on forever!
We
spent our fifth night at Duns. There are not too many places to stay in Duns,
however
we can recommend The Black Bull.
We
opted to stay at St Abbs rather than Eyemouth. Either location would have
served, but St Abbs is such
a pretty harbour we could not pass-by without staying the night. Getting a
meal at St Abbs was a problem,
only one of the two hotels were serving, and it had to be the one furthest
away from our B&B!
The
distance between St Abbs and Kirk Yetholm was going to be too much for us, so
we decided to split the
distance and spend a night at Norham – our only dip in to England over the
trip. We can recommend the
“Three Ways” B&B just outside of Norham. The last cycling day took us
back to Kirk Yetholm 34-miles grade C-
Overall
the way marking of the Borderloop is excellent; by and large you allow the route
signs to keep you
right. The BIG exception to this is in the route marking around Coldstream,
which we managed to miss
completely bypassing it to the north. The
selection of starting point for the trip is largely down to personal whim; we
would strongly recommend however
that the route be done clockwise to avoid having to climb the steepest hills! Most
of the route has abundant hotels and B&Bs; the obvious exception to this
is the 62 miles from Hawick to
Peebles where you are largely limited to Tushielaw Inn, Tibbie Shiels Inn and
Crook Inn. The
Borderloop is a great cycling trip – enjoy! |